There are all kinds of bedding material available. Below are short descriptions of each:

Wheat straw: This is a comfortable, fairly fluffy bedding. Most equines will not attempt to eat it. It’s also semi-absorbant, so it gets heavy and hard to handle when wet. Make sure the straw is free of dust and mold.

Oat straw: This is another natural bedding, and it’s more absorbant than wheat straw. One problem with oat straw is that the horse might be tempted to eat it. Make sure the straw is clean and free of mold spores.

Pine straw: Pine straw is sometimes used as a stall bedding in the South. It’s cheap, but it settles quickly. Also, it provides little moisture absorption. The pine needles do give the stall a nice smell.

Sawdust: If you have connections with a nearby sawmill, sawdust can be cheap. It’s absorbant, but it might present a problem for horses with allergies or breathing conditions due to the dust and fine particles.

Wood shavings: This is probably the most popular type of stall bedding. It’s absorbant, fluffy, and it smells nice. Shavings from soft woods are best, but check for splinters. Shavings can get expensive when purchased in bags. Try to find a local source where you can purchase it in bulk. Most horse owners prefer pine or cedar shavings.

Horse Bedding - Wood Shavings

Peat moss: This type of bedding is often recommended by equine veterinarians. It’s practically dust free, so it’s a healthy alternative as far as the respiratory system is concerned. One problem with it is that because the moss is naturally dark, wet spots are hard to see. It’s also expensive.

Paper: Some horse owners are using shredded paper as bedding. It’s usually inexpensive, and it’s very absorbant. It’s also very messy, however, and disintegrates when wet, making removal difficult.

Wood pellets: These dehydrated wood shavings are super absorbant and make stall cleaning a breeze. They’re usually expensive, however, and don’t seem very comfortable. Some horsemen state that once the pellets absorb a little moisture, they will soften and provide more comfort. Also, some horse owners mix the pellets with sawdust. Since the wood pellets are sterile, you won’t have to worry about introducing bacteria into the stall.

Hemp: Hemp chips are quickly gaining popularity as a natural stall bedding. The HempChips brand is cleaned of dust and other impurities before being sold. Horses won’t eat the chips, and they’re twice as absorbant as wood shavings and are easy to clean. One problem is that supplies are limited.

Dry Stall: This is a relatively new product made of porous volcanic rock material. It’s permanent and is often used in combination with wood shavings to extend the life of the shavings and to add more moisture absorption.

Below are some of the most popular types of horse hay in the U.S.:

Alfalfa: This is a legume hay as opposed to a grass hay and is probably the most sought-after hay among horse owners. Typical alfalfa is the highest of all hays in total digestible nutrients, and it’s high in crude protein – with an average of 18%. For digestible energy, it ties with red clover as being the highest. Early season alfalfa is usually recommended for pregnant and lactating mares, growing foals, and horses that are heavily worked. Late season alfalfa is better for idle horses. Alfalfa is also very palatable, and since most horses love the taste, they rarely waste any of this hay.

Bermuda: This is a grass hay widely used in the Southern U.S. and is about 9% protein, on average. It’s an excellent hay for idle horses and is available in small rectangular bales and in large round bales. Popular types of Bermuda hay include Alicia, Coastal, Tifton 85, and Jiggs.

Timothy: A grass hay, timothy is around 9% protein. It’s very popular with horse owners but is often cost-prohibitive. If possible purchase timothy from a second cutting. The first will contain numerous weeds, and later cuttings will be lower in nutrient content. The best timothy is cut in the pre-bloom stage or in the early bloom stage. This is another good choice for idle horses.

Timothy Hay

Orchard grass: Another grass hay, orchard grass has around the same amount of protein as Bermuda grass hay and timothy hay, with an average of 9%. Also like timothy and Bermuda grass hay, it’s a good choice for maintaining horses that are idle.

Red clover: This is another legume hay that ranks near alfalfa in nutrients and is around 15% crude protein. One problem often seen in red clover hay is that it sometimes causes horses to salivate excessively – in other words, to slobber. This reaction is caused by a mold commonly found in the clover, and it isn’t harmful to equine.

Fescue: In digestible nutrients and energy, tall fescue generally rates at the bottom of the hay pile. Fescue averages around 7% protein. Late-harvested fescue is even lower in nutritional value, as well as being lower in taste. Also, some fescue grown in the Southeastern U.S. contains a fungus that can cause problems with gestation and lactation. For this reason, mares in foal should not consume fescue the last three months of pregnancy. Second and subsequent cuttings are of less concern because the fungus affects only the seed, sheath, and stem – not the actual grass blade itself.

Oat hay: Oat hay is gaining popularity with horsemen, largely due to its affordability in some areas. When cut while green and while the oat seeds themselves are still soft, the resulting hay will have about the same protein and nutritional value of other grass hays. One problem found in oat hay is a high concentration of nitrates and a low level of calcium, carotene, and phosphorus. The hay should be tested before feeding it to your horses.

War Horse

A mounted knight, covered with armor and mounted on a sturdy steed, was considered the ultimate fighting machine at the time. The knight’s body was almost completely protected with metal plates held together with screws, straps, buckles, and hinges that could weigh well over 100 pounds in all.
Good war horses were in great demand and were very expensive. The horse had to be strong enough to carry the armored knight long distances and be capable of maneuvering in battle with quick attacks. It also had to be bold and courageous, willing to plunge headlong into the confusion and violence of war.
So what breed of horse was this indomitable destrier? Equine historians have debated this topic for years. Some believe the war horses were huge beasts standing 18 hands tall, ancestors of breeds like the Shire, Belgian, and Percheron.  More recent evidence, however, suggests that the medieval war horses were of average height – 14 or 15 hands, and while they were certainly stout and muscular, they didn’t have nearly the girth of a modern draft horse.
How do they know this? Saddles, armor, and other items the horses wore have been measured and compared with modern equine equipment. The old fittings indicate that these legendary steeds were about the same size as the modern stock horse, perhaps comparable to a muscular Quarter Horse of foundation breeding.
The modern horse breeds that best fit the descriptions of the ancient war horse of Europe are the Friesian, the Holstein, and the Norman.  A sub-breed of the Norman, the Norman Cob, is most likely the closest descendant of the mount the knight rode into battle.
How did a more or less average-sized horse carry a knight and his heavy armor? Humans in Europe were much smaller during the Middle Ages than they are today. The average man was only about 5’3” and weighed about 120 pounds. Add 100 pounds of armor to that, and you get 220 pounds. A short, stocky horse of average height, with good bone and muscling, would have no problem carrying the weight. A horse can fairly easily carry 20% of its own weight. If these chargers weighed 1,200 pounds, a burden of 220 pounds would certainly not be too much for them to bear.
We may never know exactly what breed the knights rode, or what modern breeds carry their bloodlines. From the evidence that has been recovered, however, along with the weight theory, we know that the animals were probably not the ancestors of our modern draft giants.

Written by: Wendy LaFond

Cooling down your horse properly after a strenuous activity is just as important as warming up before. To ensure the health and well being of your mount a good exercise regime is imperative. Just as we have a warm up and cool down period when we workout, so do horses need the same.

To begin the cool down a fifteen minute walk will get his body temperature returning to normal. Loosen the saddle cinch without removing the saddle right away. This will allow the air to cool his back slower, which helps to prevent cramps. A horse left to stand after strenuous exercise may experience swelling around the lower leg joints caused by a decrease in circulation.

Give your horse a minimal amount of cool water to drink, wait a few minutes, and then you can give him some more. Limit his intake of cool water as too much too fast can bring on cramping. Just as we should not drink really cold fluids when our body is hot neither should your horse.

A curry comb through his coat or a brisk rub with a towel to dry him is usually sufficient for the warm weather times. If your horse seems to be having a hard time cooling down you can rinse him down with cool water then dry him again.

The cool down period is essential in training to prevent exhaustion and injury. It gives the horse a time to relax and the trainer a chance to go over the exercises and decide where to go next in the training regimen. On hot, sunny summer days you might both enjoy seeking the shade of a nearby tree or similar cover.In cold weather the cool down becomes even more important. Even in very low temperatures a horse will get overheated and sweaty due to the size of their body and metabolic rate. At this time the cool down period is not only imperative, but should be carried out with extreme care. A sweaty horse left to dry in the winter can suffer severe physical problems such as pneumonia and other respiratory ailments. Walking to bring down the body temperature, heart, and breathing rates is a must. Have on hand a cooler or blanket to cover him during the remainder of the drying out process. If you blanket your horse in the winter be sure you put a dry one on before you return him to the barn.

In the winter it is also a good idea to provide your cooled down horse with a healthy sized flake of hay. Grass hay is preferable as it is higher in fiber than alfalfa hay. The higher fiber digestion process will aid him in staying warm and warding off a chill.

If you have trailered your horse to the workout area, be sure to dry him and walk him before returning him to the trailer for the ride home. Pay close attention to the lower legs as snow can build up and then melt in the trailer leaving it slippery and unsafe. It is a good idea to put down a layer of wood shavings on your trailer floor for the safety of horse and human alike. Be sure to blanket him for the ride home. A breathable material such as wool or fleece is preferable as it will aid your horse in the cool down process. Non-breathing blankets will actually retain the moisture on your horse and leave him feeling wet and cold. You should blanket a sweaty horse for a trailer ride even in the summer as the wind through the trailer slats can cause a chill in warm weather as well. Be sure to give him a good rub down and ensure he is dried well when you get home.
Properly cooling down your horse after strenuous activity is necessary for his health and well being. It also provides a great time for bonding with him as touch is a major factor in the bonding experience.

Written by: Matthew Brendal

There is probably nothing more fundamental to the nature of the horse than the predator and prey relationship. To a predator a horse is nothing more than a four hoofed selection in the smorgasbord of life’s entrees. Horses are food, and they know this deep down in their soul.

Domestication over the years has bred some of that fear out of the horse. But instinct is very hard to breed out. There are however training techniques that attempt to totally remove the fear of man. I once read a study in which it surmised imprinted horses were harder to train than non-imprinted horses. An imprinted horse is exposed to a series of desensitizing procedures when they are first born. The person grabs the foal right after leaving the womb and begins rubbing the horse everywhere for long periods of time. This training teaches the horse not to be afraid of humans. We humans are meat eaters by design. There fore when you imprint a horse to the point of being desensitized to the natural prey instincts the horse is missing something. The imprinted horse becomes dull to the world around him.

My experience with horses is that those that are sensitive commonly learn faster than those horses that are dull. I am not talking about a horse that is afraid of his own shadow, but rather a horse that keeps a watch on things. I don’t think fear is a good thing, but when a horse has concerns about the world around him, he will pay attention a bit better. You can’t teach a-know-it-all or person that is asleep very much, right? The same is true with a horse. You want a good pupil when you are a teacher.

The predator-prey relationship is very easy to understand in its most basic form. Prey eats grass and grows big. Predators hunt down prey and eat them. A horse is the perfect prey animal. They have large eyes on a long neck. They can see small amounts of movement very far away. Most horses, including a few hour old foals, can out run predators almost every time. Horses use their herd and bands as alarm systems in spotting predators. The horse is a running machine like nothing else ever created. Their whole body has been efficiently honed over the millenniums to run like the wind. The horse is programmed by Mother Nature to run a quarter of a mile at the slightest hint of trouble. They are flight animals that need no wings to reach speeds in excess of 40 mph in the blink of an eye.

You have probably heard that horses learn upon release of pressure, when we train them. In a horse’s mind there is one thing he never stops thinking about. Whether the horse is sleeping or wide awake, he thinks and dreams about escape. The moment he sees you walking towards him, he has already figured out 25 plus escape routes in his mind. Why is the horse preoccupied with escape? Escaping from a predator is what allows him to live another day. He doesn’t really want to fight, because he may get hurt. There are no doctors in the wild. There are just those hungry patient predators that will wait for the injured horse to die. The survival instinct in a horse is the main reason we may have some problems in the early stages of training a horse. They may not understand that you aren’t going to eat them. So we have to use methods to communicate to horse that we may be predators, but we are also their friend.

It can be a difficult task convincing some horses you are a friend and not a foe. Just remember that if you use the release of pressure (This just tells the horse where the correct escape route is.) in the foundation of training properly, your predator-prey relationship will get better and better as time goes by. Fundamental Horsemanship is TLC = Trust, Leadership & Communication.

Written By: Nicole Pellerin

Horses have a fantastic memory of their physical world, and their responses to it. Their responses will be automatic based on their memories. In fact, one nasty moment of fright and the horse will commit the fright, the place and the circumstances to memory for years. This is why it is so important for a trainer to avoid frightening a horse. This is also why it is so difficult to retrain a horse that has been traumatized. On the other hand, a horse will also commit good experiences to memory. Reinforcing good behavior in a positive way will be remembered and the horse will continue to exhibit these good behaviors.

It has been shown that horses are able to remember many situations in a single trial especially if there is an emotional component. They are able to learn more complex behavior with a small number of trials, compared to other domestic animals. When training a horse, repetitions must be done immediately and consistently. A young horse will never forget its training, whether it is good or bad. Undesirable behaviors must be corrected as soon as possible. Desirable behaviors must be positively reinforced as soon as possible.

When danger is present, there is the fight or flight response. Horses will always choose the flight response. That is why it is so important to avoid instilling fear in your horse, whether it is on purpose or by accident. Some trainers feel that instilling fear is a way of disciplining their horse. Most experts say that this is definitely the wrong way to achieve the desired result. Positive reinforcement such as loosening the rein, a good scratch or simply getting off the animal is a great reinforcement and will allow the horse to collect good memories.

Horses have been shown to learn in five different ways which are all based on memory.
1. Habituation This is when a horse is repeatedly exposed to a certain stimulus. Eventually the horse will stop responding to the stimulation. An example of this is exposing a horse to traffic so the horse will no longer be frightened of cars. This can sometimes be a temporary form of learning because the animal’s more primitive instincts may emerge causing fear to emerge if the animal is stressed.
2. Associated Learning There are two types of associated learning. The first is the classical type which was first documented by Pavlov in the early 1900′s. Dealing with horses, a trainer could click his tongue when the horse was about to break into a canter and give positive reinforcement when the horse complies. The clicking of a rider’s tongue will now be the signal for a canter. The operant type is when a reward is associated with its own behavior. A trainer will present a horse with a choice, go right or left when pressure is applied to the left. When the horse chooses correctly, he is rewarded. The wrong choice means no reward. The horse will remember the right choice earns the reward.
3. Latent Learning This is the ability of the memory to store an experience unconsciously. This type of learning does not require any training. This type of learning is evident when horses automatically remember places, routes, and locations.
4. Imprinting This is when early perceptual experiences are marked into the horse’s brain. Trainers often take advantage of this type of learning with young foals, as young as 1 hour old. They will try to desensitize the animals to alarming sensations, sights and sounds.
5. Insight Learning This is when the horse is taught how to learn. It is based on the premise of stimulus-response-reinforcement. This is similar to the operant type of associated learning but the insight learning focuses more on emotional reinforcement. This type of learning will require a strong relationship between horse and trainer.

The most important thing to remember about a horse’s memory is that they retain
the bad as well as the good. It is critical that the trainer corrects bad behaviors as soon as possible. It is also imperative that you avoid the fear response in your horse. Fear will lead to undesirable behaviors as well as a horse that can easily be spooked.

Written by: Maryellen Grady

When you are building a trusting relationship with your new horse, it is very important that you understand his body language and he yours. Get to know him. It can’t be said often enough. Do this simply by spending time with your new pet. Assert your leadership, but be gentle. Never be angry or abusive with him. You cannot develop a caring, trusting relationship if your own body language is based on just being the boss at any cost, imposing fear and punishment rather than fair discipline and firmness, and failing to be gentle.

One valuable way to get to know your equine’s personality is to learn his body language so that you can learn useful tips for training him and helping him reach his true potential. This way you can prevent problems or use the approach you think will work best with him because you know something of how his mind works.

Learning Your Horse’s Body Language

The Ears:

1. The ears are the first sign that tell you something is up. Something has his attention if both ears are alert and locked. Trainers look for one ear to be locked onto them while training. Each ear may be locked onto something independent of the other. If he moves his ears back and forth, he is feeling uncertain about something.

2. Look out for ears that are pinned back. He is scared or angry. When nervous, he will pin his ears back when being handled or approached. The ears are very flatly pinned back when angry, and it is not hard to distinguish this emotion from nervousness. Pay attention. Don’t attempt to train him or ride him until you gentle him down.

The Tail:

3. Accurately reading his tail movements is like reading his mood ring. A swishing tail means he is irritated. When a horse is excited, you might see him running around with his tail up and out. This is called high-tailing. If the tail is tucked between his legs then he is feeling scared. If he has a kink in his tail, look out. He’s a about to buck. The kink will be very apparent. The tail will be literally held out to the side.

Facial Expressions:
4. These more subtle body language cues can leave you baffled at first. A tight mouth means he is scared. You may see this when you are trying to work with him on something new. When he begins to realize what you’re trying to teach him, his mouth will start to soften and he will begin to lick and chew. He is now saying, “Ah, I get it now.”5. Sometimes the equine response to his mood may be so human-like that he looks a lot like Cousin Fred. But here’s a few more tips before you get out your Psychology 101 textbook. When he gets really concerned about something, he might get worry wrinkles above his eyes, almost the same response we have when we frown about something weighing on our minds. The equine response to annoyance is to wrinkle the nose.

Combination stances:

6. As we get better at interpreting body language, we can look at the entire animal and get a fair idea of his psychology du jour. Relaxation is shown by a flat back,low head and a cocked hoof. Something has his attention if his neck is arched and his ears are locked onto something. And you don’t need to be a mind reader to figure out this bit of body language: Look out for a animal about to bite when you see a swinging tail, ears pinned and teeth bared. And if you have spent any quality time at all with your pet you will recognize partially pinned ears, tucked tail, worry wrinkles and a tight mouth as being most likely signs of a nervous or
scared pet.

7. The eyes of a horse are also very human-like. They are steady, unafraid, and sometimes even unnerving. Study them well and you will learn a lot about your horse’s emotions and about his personality. Look deeply and you will see his mind percolating and planning in there.

Happy trails!

Written by: Mary Knetter

There’s nothing more beautiful than watching a herd of horses galloping across an open field. The group ebbs and flows around the hills and trees as beauty in motion plays itself out.

By nature, horses are herd animals. They thrive on the safety, companionship and mental health that the group provides. Each animal has a place, responsibility and expectations in the group and each knows in its mind where it belongs.

Photo by Alisa Atkinson

BENEFITS OF COMPANIONSHIP

There is strength in numbers–In the wild, a single animal is able to warn others of predators. Groups can huddle together in the summer heat to switch flies or keep warm in winter. Animals kept alone must be blanketed or sheltered.

Companionship provides a normal herd dynamic and group behavior–Young foals learn about group psychology by watching adults. Other mares, stallions and geldings teach foals about how to be a horse and act in a herd. During the first two years of life, it is essential for young animals to be kept with adults to learn normal group behavior.

Improves mental health–Often animals will nap in groups, with several others standing to keep watch. Animals are able to rest and relax their body and mind, trusting their companions will warn them of coming danger.

Herd members know their place and know what to expect–Dominant members of the group establish the rules of the group and determine where they will graze, drink and travel. Lower ranking members learn when they can eat or drink and how they fit in the big picture.

DISADVANTAGES

Some members get abused–Dominant members often abuse less dominant, unhealthy or older animals, forcing them away from food or water.

Group behavior determines what happens–One animal influences what the group does, which can be harmful to the psychology of the group. Older, unhealthy or weaker animals can get abused, chased or injured by other members.

Herd dynamics change constantly–As the seasons change, hormone balances also change. Mares and stallions are more sexually active in spring and summer and reduces in fall and winter. New members can be introduced, and current members can be eliminated from the group, causing the herd to reassess the hierarchy.

Humans have to establish themselves as herd bossIt can be difficult because humans don’t spend a large amount of time within the herd. Owners and handlers have to establish to each individual that they are the dominant horse.

HOW TO PROVIDE SAFE COMPANIONSHIP

The best way to provide companionship is to keep two or more animals together. Keep bossy or aggressive animals away from those they might attack or fight with. If a horse is kept alone, provide another animal for companionship, such as a cow, sheep or goat.

It is also important to understand the hierarchy in a pastured herd at feeding time. When feeding grain to a group of animals start by feeding the dominant horses and the less dominant animals after. A better alternative may be to separate the animals, feed them, and turn them back out to pasture.

Companionship can also be provided by the owner or handler. Learn new disciplines together or set goals that can be enjoyable to reach. Make some “playtime” for the horse and it will look forward to the time spent bonding.

Foals can be kept with their mares and older mares and geldings to learn normal group behavior. When the mares are removed from the herd to wean the foals, the older animals continue to provide companionship and lessen the trauma of suddenly feeling abandoned. Foals are also less intimidating to older, weaker animals that may be abused in a normal herd situation.

Introduce new horses to the group over several days or weeks. Introduce less dominant members of the group to establish companions. Then, bring them into the herd and watch as the new member is being introduced, taking action to remove animals if needed.

CONCLUSION

By understanding the normal psychology and group behavior of horses, owners can provide the best companionship possible. It is up to the owner to assess the individual needs of each animal and provide the healthiest, safest companions possible.

Written by: Matthew Brendal

I usually divide horses into two categories when I train them, sensitive and dull. The sensitive horse is the one in which everything seems to bother him. Nothing much ever seems to concern the dull horse. What I just described is a horse that is psychologically sensitive vice being physiology sensitive. I will cover sensitive areas a horse in moment. First I want you to understand that a horse has many sensitive areas because of the natural emotional concern to protect his body’s vital areas.

Let’s look at the front of the horse. The head is a very sensitive part that we come in contact with on a routine basis. I believe the mouth is probably the most sensitive body part on the horse. The tongue is very soft and has virtually no protection. The lips, gums and teeth are also provided with very little protection. Yet we place cold hard steel in their mouths just about every time we ride them. Okay let’s pause here for a fundamental horsemanship time out. Bits are not designed as punishment tools. Bits, no matter how big or small are designed to communicate with the horse like a 19th century romance poet, eloquently.

The eyes on a horse protrude out of the side of their head. This can cause problems putting on and taking off halters and bridles. The ears are also a body part that can be easily hurt.

 The lower legs on a horse have very little muscle tissue. Lower legs mostly have just a thin skin covering bone. That is why you may see horses that are loaded into a trailer sometimes and they have their legs wrapped. The fetlock is an area that is very susceptible to injury from stress or violent impact. The weight of the entire horse is sometimes focused on one leg during periods when the horse is moving.

The withers, when covered with an ill fitted saddle can easily become sensitive and sore. The white spots of hair (old saddle sores) sometimes located on withers are signs of riding a horse extensively with a poorly fitted saddle. The back is also sensitive if prolonging excess weight is carried. The rule of thumb for the load weight, saddle and rider, should never exceed 20% of the horse’s total body weight.

The flanks are very sensitive on most horses. The flank area covers the hind gut and there is very little protection from attack by a predator. Many horses just tighten that area when touched. Some horse may try to kick at you. Before I pick up an unfamiliar horse’s hind leg, I gently touch the flank area. If the horse twitches and tries to protect that area I know I may get kicked attempting to pick up his leg. I gently massage that area until the horse relaxes, and then I attempt to pick up the leg. My gently rubbing is just my respectful way of asking the horse if it is alright to pick up that leg.

The reproductive organs are very sensitive and may require cleaning from time to time. It is important not to introduce infection when breeding or during health maintenance. Any procedure involving reproductive should be done very carefully.

In summary a horse is a very sensitive animal on most days, both mentally and physically. But a horse must also be trained to accept the touch of the owners and handlers in all the sensitive areas. It is our responsibility never to abuse that privilege. We must watch our tool and equipment use so that it does irritate or injure any sensitive areas on the horse. Our training techniques need to be sound, firm, yet never injure. Fundamental Horsemanship is TLC = Trust, Leadership & Communication.

Written By: Holle Abee

In order to fully understand a horse, it’s important to understand his physiology, or his internal workings. Basic knowledge of how the horse’s body works will explain much of his behavior. One of the most revealing aspects of equine physiology is eyesight and its affects on how the animal reacts to certain situations.

Horses see the world much differently than humans do. The horse chiefly uses monocular vision, like most other prey animals. In other words, his eyes are on the side of his head, and each eye can see separately. Horses and their ancestors were hunted for millions of years, by large predators and by man. Their physiology adapted accordingly in order to survive. They see less detail than humans do, but they have a much wider range of vision. Their eyesight is extremely sensitive to movement, which was necessary to see approaching predators.

Because of his “prey vision,” he has difficulty judging depth and distance, unlike predatory animals that generally have both eyes in the front of the head: think lion, tiger, wolf, and human. This is the reason horses often balk when crossing ditches or depressions in the ground. They simply cannot judge them accurately. The fact that a horse cannot see his own front legs or chest doesn’t help any, either.

Horses are also able to employ the use of binocular vision, like humans do, to focus both eyes on the same object. A problem often arises when they switch from monocular vision to binocular vision. When they make the switch, objects appear to jump. This is why horses sometimes shy away from simple things like a piece of trash on the roadside. To a horse, a harmless piece of white paper, when viewed first with one eye and then by both eyes, seems as if the paper is “attacking” him. When your horse shies or spooks on a ride, allow him to approach the offending object slowly and to view it with both eyes. Once he gets a good look at it and realizes it’s harmless, he will calm down.

Horses also have blind spots. For example, there’s about a four-foot area directly in front of his face where he can’t see. This space varies a little from animal to animal, but four feet is a good average. This is why you should never approach him directly from the front. Have you ever noticed how he lifts his head when approached in this manner? He’s just trying to get a look at whom or what is coming toward him. If you must approach from the front, always speak to him to let him know it’s you and that he’s in no danger.

Another blind spot is the space directly behind your horse. Many new horse owners have suffered a painful kick because they didn’t alert the horse that they were approaching from the rear. The horse didn’t strike out due to meanness. It’s just an old holdover from the days when his distant relatives had to be always on guard from predators. Always speak to your animal when approaching him directly from behind. This will avoid startling your horse and help put him at ease so that he won’t be on the defensive.

Another important area of equine eyesight is night vision. Horses see much better in the dark than do humans; however, it takes them longer to adjust from light to dark. This explains why horses often spook easily at night when going from a lighted area directly to a dark area. Always give your steed a chance to adjust to different degrees of light. The extra time you take could avoid a panicked equine, one that could injure himself or his handler.

Properly understanding a horse’s eyesight is key to explaining much of his behavior and in avoiding negative or dangerous behavior. Horses are powerful, and they can be dangerous, but they seldom act out of anger. Most all equine “aggression” is actually reaction to fear. By following a few important guidelines based on equine physiology, both you and your horse will be happier and safer!